Tuscan
Region
When you look out through one of the three-mullioned
windows in the Palazzo Pubblico (town hall) in Siena you
see the towers, merlons and ogives of the Gothic architecture
but the most impressive view is over the countryside stretching
out beyond Porta Romana. This scene looks as if time has
stood still and the harmonious composition makes you think
of perfection, peace and pastoral tranquillity. Like the
colours you see when you look at the scenery of Valdinievole:
bright red blossoms of the carnations and the silvery green
leaves of the olive trees.
Lucca is a little treasure chest, surrounded by imposing
walls: the quiet pace of the city’s life goes perfectly
with the aristocratic atmosphere of its splendid monuments,
which constitute a priceless artistic heritage; Piazza
S. Martino is one of the town’s most charming places,
where the spectacular façade of the Duomo fits in
with the lovely buildings around it, while the scenic Piazza
Anfiteatro still has the elliptical shape of a Roman arena..
Outside the walls lies the peaceful scenery of the Lucca
countryside, scattered with wonderful historic villas.
There is no shortage of castles in Tuscany either. In particular:
the Castello di Poppi, residence of the powerful lord Guido
Novelli, who ruled the Casentino area for over seven hundred
years; it stands out, elegant and aristocratic, on a lonely
hill in the Arno Valley: the view from its windows takes
in all its surroundings and seems to be unending. But it
is the tower that steals the show: from inside the courtyard
it looks so steep, seen from below, that it seems never-ending.
And this courtyard is one of the mansion’s proud boasts,
with the wonderful armorial bearings set in its stone walls:
its cultural heart is the Rilliana Library, with about twenty
thousand antique volumes, including extremely rare manuscripts,
incunabulum and sixteenth-century works. The simple architecture
of the Palatine Chapel, frames splendid frescoes; the author
of this beauty is Taddeo Gaddi, Giotto’s most devoted
pupil.
In Florence, in the Boboli Garden, water gushes from the
mouths of 16 moustached masks around the Mostaccini
fountain.
The city’s cathedral, dedicated to S. Maria
del Fiore,
is one of the most wonderful churches in the world, with
Brunelleschi’s majestic dome: a wonder that never fails
to surprise; its vault is decorated with a magnificent cycle
of frescoes covering 3600 square metres. Giotto oversaw work
on the Duomo until his death: he was buried there but never
saw his famous Campanile completed.
In Tuscany, even platters are famous, like the true bistecca
alla fiorentina (T-bone steak) and the tasty panzanella (seasoned
moistened bread), along with Chianti and Brunello
di Montalcino wines.
Versilia offers two trendy venues: Viareggio, with the Art
Nouveau and Deco architecture of its seafront, and Forte
dei Marmi, where every year’s new fashions and styles
can be glimpsed in restaurants, bars and clubs. Further north,
towards Liguria, Versilia reveals charming “marbled” landscapes:
Michelangelo, Donatello and Brunelleschi all came here in
search of the exquisite marble found in the Apuan Alps and
which gives Carrara, where everything seems to be sculpted
from this precious stone, its colour and personality; throughout
the centuries, highly prestigious schools were founded for
its crafting, like the ones in Pietrasanta, a fascinating
village located in inland Versilia, full of workshops and
cultural centres.
Amongst Tuscany’s jewels of the Renaissance is Montepulciano,
where every August the palio delle botti (competition of
the casks) is held: amongst medieval choreographies, eight
wards compete against each other in pushing an 80 kilogram
barrel up the town’s steep, stone-paved roads; the
winners take home the valued banner. Less than 15 kilometres
away is Pienza: another star of the Renaissance, transformed
by Pope Pius II into the symbol of his “ideal city”.
There are many Etruscan sites in the region, but two centres
in particular were, and still are, especially relevant: Vetulonia,
with its numerous pit graves, and Roselle, where within its
still perfectly preserved walls the ancient populace dwelled
for more than 400 years. Even Populonia’s archaeological
area continues to reveal traces of its long past: the Art
and Archaeology Museum of the Maremma in Grosseto, full of
Etruscan and Roman artefacts, is the starting point for “approaching” the
area’s ancient history.
Sailing enthusiasts, on the other hand, find their paradise
at Punta Ala: aside from the villas and the hotels, people
gather by the harbour, where boutiques and refined cafes
dot the sea-front, and where everyone can admire craft of
every size, which few can afford but which many can dream
of.
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